Aye. Getting the chemical metal gunk to work is all about the cleanliness of the hub. It's all in the preparation. Is it both bearing faces that are worn or just one? Only use the gunk if you have too on the worn side and use it sparingly....as you will just have to clean excess off. My spare wheel needs cleaning up and new bearings. I used to get about six to ten days full riding out of a new set of glued in bearings so whether to use my spare or not really depends on just how worn your wheel is.

Aye or petrol but limited wet n dry blunt knife edge better. Have you or Jonny T centre punched the internal diameter of the bearing face I'd probably leave that as a last resort after trying glue. With too much wet n dry you're just eroding the surface and exacerbating problem. Buying good quality bearings worthwhile after initial test Kyoto etc much better than all balls.

-- Edited by PBC on Saturday 25th of July 2015 08:22:22 AM

Snaf wrote:

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Ideally you want bearing compound but it's nearly cheaper to buy a new hub.

As P said a snall amount of liquid metal will do it, set it all up with the axle and bushes off the bike to align everything.

-- Edited by Snaf on Saturday 25th of July 2015 09:21:32 AM

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Aye three very small blobs Of liquid metal thinly spread a few mm on the vertical (interference face) of the hub face that your bearing will butt up to and 120 degrees apart will do it.  Too much blobbiness could lead to a glued bearing

Dinnae worry Ryan. Small blobs 120 degrees apart as described - imagine just 3mm of toothpaste per blob at the top of the vertical face you knock the bearing into, it will spread as the bearing goes down. Fnarr.

Maybe good idea to smoke a big spliff first, don't worry about the bearing just imagine being bowled a cricket ball at +90mph by Dennis Lillee in his snarling pomp take yer helmet off and give it a fekking big humpty, it worked for Botham!